Altec A7 500-8 and Altec 1224A electronic crossovers

[Lycoming680]

The Pascalite is probably the best compromise. The Radian handles more power.

My preference is the standard aluminum for home use. But hey, the Radian was designed by an ex-Altec employee. Renkus designed the 2 inch Alnico version of the Western digital driver for Altec. Had Altec brass seen fit to mass produce it, the 70's might have turned out differently.









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Specs:
http://greatplainsaudio.com/wp-conte...6/9444B-01.pdf

I'm in Central Ohio. Near Columbus.

Old guy,
Beautiful country up there. I used to visit Wynkoop Airfield in Mt Vernon every summer for many years attending an antique biplane gathering. Love the old barns and houses in that area, just lovely.

-Brandon

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Always advertised as cast alum., for sure non-magnetic and have had them weld repaired with no comment from the welder.

511B sawed in half: https://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbm.../2013/01/9.jpg

edit: Note that I omitted the thick cardboard gasket, so if only wanting to fine tune it you'll need a metal spacer substitute, otherwise it's wasted effort performance wise.

GM,
Wow! Did you saw it in half to get dimensions for a good drawing or just exploration?
I've got the perfect saw for this if anyone wants their 511B halved.

I cut these in half some time back - came out nice
https://youtu.be/eCR1P5w2Oik

-Brandon

[GM]

No, it was done by Brad [bfish] as part of DIYing an optimized 511E, but he 'disappeared' long ago, never [AFAIK] to return to the boards nor respond to my repeated PMs WRT to some personal stuff from when he visited me. There were some other construction photos, but couldn't find them in a quick search.

edit: Interesting! He was an active poster for many years, but now doesn't come up in a member search! Cool table!

[Lycoming680]

GM- Hopefully you can run him down... Life, eh?

While I've got your ear, if you don't mind - I have a question about active crossovers. Are you a resource on that topic?

Edit: and thank you.

-Brandon

[GM]

You're welcome!

Not likely, last PM was 5.26.12

If you'd asked 60 yrs ago, yes, nowadays all I know is that the various dbx systems I've had plus based on Christmas Holidays 2019 ~ all day audition it's still the best bang/buck system I've been exposed to.

[Lycoming680]

Well, we can hope the best for him then.

On that crossover topic - (please know that I'm very green behind the ears on this stuff) - is the rule of active crossovers wired in before amplification a "hard & fast" rule? If so, could you explain that to me...?

Thanks much,
-Brandon

[GM]

Right, at signal level the components can be tiny due to only having to pass low voltage, current to the amp's input Vs a passive XO's power amp output: Signal Processing Fundamentals

Rane's compendium of signal processing Tech Notes: Rane Library

[Lycoming680]

GM, thanks. I'll get read up on that - thank you for sharing. I was thinking of going with actives until I could possibly settle on a frequency and then try my hand at building my own passives.

Budget wise I might do as per old guy: buy the single N501-8A that I'm short, eventually get an amp then a dsp/active eventually and if I get along with things then maybe a second amp to bi- amp with.

Does running less watts to the HF compared to the LF aid in balancing the two at all?

Thanks,
-Brandon

Edit: I'm certain one of my 416-8A's has a separation of ~2" at the cone surround joint...? If that's what you'd call it. If I'm looking at dropping it off at GPA for the works, I might as well do both. Will probably be doing this firstly then perhaps acquiring the missing x-over.